UK trip 2014: Hadrian's Wall, Lanercost Priory, Gretna Greeen, Edinburgh

We had a beautiful day going from England to Scotland, with more sun than clouds. Of course you can't avoid the Romans wherever you go - leaving the Lake District we visited a good stretch of Hadrian's Wall, built to keep out the painted Picts from Scotland. The name Scotland actually comes from the invading Scotti tribe of - Ireland! These folks just cannot get along. Our Scottish bus driver supports Scottish independence, but the country couldn't survive without the money flowing in from England. Unless the EU took them on as another charity case - fat chance.

Beyond the wall we stopped at the beautiful 12th century Lanercost Priory. Our unedited photos don't do it justice but it was a lovely church with a romantic ruined tower. It owns an altarpiece designed by William Morris that they keep locked up except for special occasions. They also had a nice tea and gift shop to browse.

Then to Scotland - first stop Gretna Green, the Las Vegas of Britain since the 1700s because eloping couples could marry there without parental or church consent. It actually was a cute place with a museum detailing various scandalous elopements and showing the anvils struck by the "blacksmith priests" to conclude a ceremony. Couples still come for a quickie wedding.

Then to a town called Moffat where a great little farmers market supplied us with local smoked pheasant and Stilton for our dinner tonight. We also met candy makers who've won a contract to the US chain World Market for their "tablet", a kind of fudge. They assured me that they would expand their local factory to meet demand, not start making tablet in industrial vats in Haiti or Baltimore. I forgot to mention earlier that pheasants show up all over the countryside, they're no endangered species. We had a great lunch at the Annandale Hotel that visits from our tour company has rescued from ruin, so the whole town appreciates us. And all the wool shops were there with big bargains, better than Edinburgh.

Edinburgh is more like London or NYC, a big lively town with tall stone buildings. We actually can sea the Firth of Forth from our hotel window, which means we have great location and weather. We found the statue of the patron saint of capitalism, Adam Smith, saw the dozens of quickie kilt and fake tartan shops lining the Royal Mile between the castle and Holyrood Palace, the church where Zara Phillips got married (Princess Anne's daughter), and had a terrific Palm Sunday treat. The choir at St. Giles, mother church of Presbyterianism and John Knox's gravesite, performed Faure's Requiem. The sun poured thru the Robbie Burns stain glass window and the glorious music flowed and reverberated thru the ancient arches. A sublime experience.

Now two days to explore Edinburgh before coming home. I miss home but I'll be sorry to leave this adventure behind. So many places to see, so little time and money!

Hadrian's Wall sheep